July 11, 2006
armani attacks savile row
Giorgio Armani calls London’s centre of tailoring [Savile Row] a ‘bad English comedy’.
“A bespoke Armani suit goes with a limited-edition watch, a vintage Maserati or a house on the Costa Smeralda in Sardinia.”If anyone reading this works for Mr. Armani, please pass this message along to your boss:[...]
He dismisses Savile Row as an outdated institution that has failed to keep up with modern tastes, lifestyle and technology. “Savile Row is a comedy, a melodrama lost in the past. It’s so old it should be in black and white,” he said.
[...]
“When I think of Savile Row I picture a man in an old black and white English film. He is living in the country. He has a butler. He smokes a cigar sitting in an old-fashioned Prince of Wales check suit.”
He lampoons English tailors as men “of limited mentality ... who make clothes for the children of lords. They have a restricted idea of how a suit is made. The suit can only be made in this shape, with these fabrics. It has to be a certain way and they don’t go beyond that.
“They don’t research or develop something or innovate. There is no room in their head to expand into something new. They do not think of half the things that I take into consideration when I think of a hand-made to measure suit.”
[...]
“It is very early days, but maybe we will start to do the finale of the Giorgio show with men’s couture. Let’s see what Savile Row has to say about that.”
Thomas Mahon, the Savile Row tailor will gladly meet up anywhere with you, anytime, in front of the press and some bloggers. Then, armed only with basic tools i.e. tape measure, bolt of cloth, shears, needle and thread, chalk etc, you two will both measure and make a suit for a third gentleman, a customer, WITHOUT the assistance of anyone else. Just the tailor, the customer and the tools.
When completed, we will show our results live, to the press and the blogosphere. Then we can all transparently see how much the skills actually match the rheotoric. Easy.
That, Mr. Armani, is what Savile Row has to say. Thank you.
Posted by hugh macleod at July 11, 2006 11:54 AM | TrackBackGood points Hugh, Armani is a true Euro wanker.
Thing is, I feel he may be right here - isnt there something moldy about some aspects of Saville Row style. Not talking about technique, dedication or precision. Something I think you may be helping eradicate...
Posted by: John Dumbrille at July 11, 2006 10:46 PMget down! video it!
I was wondering what your response would be to these statements. Excellent.
Posted by: William at July 11, 2006 10:52 PMI like the idea, but even one more step further, whoever gets the suit maintain a blog about the suit and it's wear after the 'event'. Or if it's an exisiting blogger they just post on it occasionally.
Heck I'd almost volunteer for it, but since I have gone from wearing a suit once a day in DC life to one a year in Western US life I would be a bad volunteer.
Posted by: Thomas at July 11, 2006 11:07 PMJohn, point taken, but that is part of the charm.
I could make you a list of famous designers who Tom has made for, some of them equally famous and/or respected as Mr Armani, who would rather wear Thomas' stuff than their own stuff, or Mr Armani's stuff. Maybe one day when I'm feeling less discreet, I will.
Mr Armani's article in The Times was all about marketing, and nothing to do with craft. Rock on.
Funny, Mr Armani mentioned Savile Row, but made no mention of Naples, which also has a fine tailoring tradition. Very interesting, considering he's Italian.
Whatever. Mr Armani said, "Let's see what Savile Row has to say." Savile Row has spoken back. Now let's see what Mr Armani has to say.
Posted by: hugh macleod at July 11, 2006 11:26 PMI would much rather wear clothes that whisper quality to the wearer than shout 'I've got money but no clue"
Posted by: Kev Mears at July 12, 2006 12:13 AMSounds like Armani said that specifically to piss you off.
Yes, you're that famous.
Posted by: Mike Abundo at July 12, 2006 3:49 AMDespite the shit-stirring comments from Mr. Armani, this revitalization of the category has got to be be fantastic for both Saville Row tailors and the Italians. Two suits boys, two countries, take your pick!
Posted by: Gordon at July 12, 2006 4:08 AMI would estimate the chance of Armani actually taking Thomas up on this offer at about 0% ... it's extremely unlikely that he actually does any significant amount of sewing/measuring/cutting anymore.
That said, if it happened, I would pay money to see it.
Posted by: John Koetsier at July 12, 2006 5:42 AMMr Armani 'make' something? Tut tut! All this wanker knows is how to make himself look even more fucking lazy and stupid.
I bags the podcast concession! Thomas and Giorgio armed with scissors? Yummy. What a duel and only one outcome guaranteed! Bravo, encore Thomas!
Posted by: robert at July 12, 2006 6:02 AMOne on one showdown covered by RSS spelindid!
Interesting to follow how microbrands use showdown to advance themself.
Showdown as distruption: Soon there will be bunch of startup offerings to cater to this showdown trend.
UnShowdown anyone?
It seems very apples to oranges to compare 'designer' (and yes, marketeer) to 'craftsman'. A little like an architect critiquing a high-end cabinet maker. Simply not the same thing.
It *is*, however, interesting that he attacks Savile row; I wonder whether your and other efforts having turned the worlds eye to Savile row, have bumped Armani and his ilk off the summit of nouveau riche objects of desire.
Posted by: Kim at July 12, 2006 7:29 AMit would be cool/authentic to do a live video webcast of a suit being cut and made for a customer in front of the world to see.
find a customer willing to participate
invite the press/blogoshere to watch pre/post event
have Thomas talk us through the process
(just film it better than Ant and Dec in Alien Autopsy)
Posted by: Fraser at July 12, 2006 8:13 AM"A bespoke Armani suit goes with a limited-edition watch, a vintage Maserati or a house on the Costa Smeralda in Sardinia."
I actually did laugh out loud on reading this. It deserves to be the definition of nouveau riche from an updated version of Ambrose Bierce's Devil's Dictionary.
Posted by: Colin Donald at July 12, 2006 9:37 AMWhoa...I liked Armani, but this is sheer arrogance...I think the bottom line is that the kind of man who wears - and appreciates - a Savile Row suit is simply different from one who will go for the Armani - give me the former any day! (And I say this as an Italian woman) Interesting to hear you mention the Naples tradition. What's next, a Marinella-English Cut partnership?!
Posted by: Rachele at July 12, 2006 10:29 AMIt's time to get some finely crafted Gucci and Prada handbags at a secret location somewhere around dawn and let 'em at each other!!!
Is there any way of getting Naomi Campbell to be the practise punchbag?
Posted by: Paul Fabretti at July 12, 2006 11:04 AMEnglish Cut special edition Maserati next?
Posted by: John Dodds at July 12, 2006 2:07 PMSaville Row makes suits for Gentlemen. Armani sells suits to David Beckham and Roman Abramovich and shapeless sacks to naff 1980s rock stars such as Duran Duran.
Nuff said.
heylets make Rocketboom cut the video.. !!and make the andrew the model for the suit ..
Posted by: pete at July 12, 2006 8:47 PMDangerous ploy but worth the risk - don't forget that in order to get a design out the door, the designer actually has to get the thing made. And they 'usually' do that themselves to see if it works. In this case? How many on the design team? Any of them tailors? Who knows...
Posted by: Dennis Howlett at July 13, 2006 9:59 AMI'm still wondering what's wrong with Burtons or Top Man....
Posted by: Paul Fabretti at July 13, 2006 3:32 PMMr. Macleod -
I make (and associate with fellow makers of) split bamboo fly rods. I'm not one even one of the lesser known makers. But, I've seen this argument played out in my craft... the Armani mentality is one I would simply dismiss as being tailored to a different demographic (however close it may be) than your own and leave it at that. You both have exceptional followings. You'll both have opinions well-thought out and likely articulated many times over. If those opinions seem to conflict... So be it. Gentlemanly conduct being what it is... Have a brandy with a mate and keep your chalk dry.
Gerald Buckley, Tulsa Oklahoma USA
Posted by: Gerald Buckley at July 13, 2006 6:04 PMInteresting times indeed Hugh...
The Savile Row Bespoke Code, they didn't have this before?
I'm curious to hear what Thomas has to say about this as well.
Exactly!
The point about Naples is well made. I've had my suits made here in Melbourne, Australia, by an Italian Australian for years. He detests Armani as a poor reflection on the traditions of Italian tailoring.
Personally I'venever been able to get past the notion that, when closely inspected, Armani is just overpriced rubbish.
Posted by: Tony Meurer at July 14, 2006 6:26 AMI think that Tony Meurer is right!
Posted by: Tsanko at July 21, 2006 9:48 AMim a die hard fan of ARMANI/SAVILE ROW & VERSACE
i heartly respect SAVILE ROW'S unique & traditional craftmenship for tailoring which is also talked around the globe.
ARMANI also has a niche & elite clientage & also does savile row has.
and also VERSACE also falls has the same caliber/genre.
as per my opinion theres no point in critising one & another,
as every one has some unique distinguishing feature which cannot be copied or made by the other one.
let the person who buys decide whats best for him & what is his taste for which couture.
I HEARTLY DISLIKE ANYONE CRITISING AN ARMANI,A VERSACE OR SAVILE ROW.
I MAY HAVE INSTEAD SUITS OF ALL THREE OF THEM IN MY WADEROBE INSTEAD OF HEARING ANY KIND OF CRITISIZM AGAINST ANY ONE OF THEM.
THIS SHOWS MY DIE HARD COMMITEMENT TOWARDS MY ABOVE 3 FASHION ICONS/BRANDS/DESIGNERS.
PL DONT CRITISIZE EACH OTHER YOULL THREE ARE THE BEST AND SHALL BE THE BEST.
LOVE U ALL.
MY BEST WISHES
Posted by: deepak sharma at August 3, 2006 4:43 PM
Armani just sounds like wanker trying to fleece other wankers. Isn't that business model of all these mass produced clothing houses?
Posted by: Ryan at August 5, 2006 12:34 PMThe one truly elegant looking Italian fashion designer is Mr Valentino. Now does any one know who makes his suits?
Posted by: tremayne at August 22, 2006 9:01 PM